Waterless Shower Gels: How to Stay Clean Without Water

It may sound entirely counter-intuitive, yet it is perfectly possible to maintain good personal hygiene without turning on a tap.

Few things feel better than a hot shower - or a cold one, if you are trying to ease muscle soreness - after a demanding sports session. As well as stopping you from smelling like a fennec because bacteria are multiplying on your skin, it is one of life’s simplest pleasures: a chance to decompress, when the day’s worries seem to run away with the water.

Yet there are circumstances in which no shower is available: at a high-mountain refuge 2,400 metres up, during a wild bivouac, or after an ultra-trail in the countryside. In these situations, those most committed to intense exertion have a secret weapon: waterless shower gels, also known as “rinse-free” gels. Costing between €5 and €30 depending on the size and brand, they slip easily into a bag before an adventure and are readily available in supermarkets, parapharmacies and sports shops.

Why your skin does not (always) need water to get clean

Let us first challenge a common misconception: water is not the active ingredient in your shower. You have probably noticed this when trying to remove a greasy mark from a sofa, or rinsing oil-covered hands after cooking. Use water alone and you will end up with… wet grease. Oils and fats are hydrophobic: they repel water rather than mixing with it.

What does the actual cleaning is surfactants, the molecules found in shower gel that have a particular structure. One end binds to fatty substances such as sebum and sweat, while the other remains water-soluble. At a sufficient concentration, they naturally form micelles: microscopic spherical structures that trap impurities at their core. Water simply carries them away during rinsing; it acts as the carrier solvent that flushes away dissolved residue.

How waterless shower gels work

Rinse-free gels also contain surfactants. They work in the same way, enclosing organic residue in micelles that remain suspended in the gel. Simply spread the product over your body as you would hand sanitiser, then rub yourself firmly with a clean towel. The fabric’s mechanical action takes the place of water: its fibres lift away the impurity-filled gel.

These products are therefore especially useful for cleaning yourself in many situations, including those unrelated to high-intensity sport. If you commute by bike, for instance, you will almost certainly know that lonely moment after a 20 km ride in blazing sunshine, when you stand around waiting to dry before going up to see your colleagues. Even if cycling is not your thing, applying a rinse-free gel can freshen key areas without forcing you to improvise a strip wash over a tiny basin.

Waterless shower gels are a practical back-up, not a replacement

That said, do not expect to replace all your showers. These gels are excellent stand-ins, but some can eventually leave a thin film of polymers and setting agents on the epidermis. After repeated use, this may disrupt the balance of the hydrolipidic film and clog pores. Use them sparingly, unless you are determined for your skin to become as waterproof as an oilcloth. And, honestly, a shower will always feel better. Alongside removing dirt more effectively, its spray stimulates lymphatic and blood circulation, while exposing your body to water may help reduce cortisol production, the stress hormone. Think of these gels as a practical solution - the dermatological equivalent of spraying deodorant over your jumper: it helps in a pinch, but it fools no one.