Eyelash extensions: are the beauty benefits worth the health risks?

Long, thick eyelashes may be fashionable, but are they worth the cost – and the possible health risks?

The protective role of natural eyelashes

Natural eyelashes have essential protective roles. Because the eyes are exposed to the environment, they can provide a route for bacteria and viruses to enter the body – with potentially fatal consequences.

Lashes shield the eyes by redirecting airflow away from the eyeball’s surface. They also help prevent airborne debris entering the eye by triggering blinking, while helping to keep the eyeball lubricated.

Eyelash extensions and adhesive risks

Eyelash extensions consist of individual fibres fixed to natural lashes, one by one.

They can be produced from a range of materials, including natural fibres such as silk, mink hair or horse hair, as well as synthetic materials including nylon and plastic. The extensions are secured with adhesive, which may create problems.

Before an appointment, most technicians carry out a patch test – commonly on the wrist or behind the ear – to identify an allergy to the glue. Yet, even where no allergic response occurs, the glue’s chemicals may irritate the delicate area around the eyes, while the adhesive’s weight can irritate the eyelashes.

Correct application is crucial. There have been cases of people accidentally sticking their eyelids together with eyelash adhesive. More worryingly, since the product is used so near the eye, eyelash glue must never touch the surface of the eye.

One study found that more than 60% of women experienced keratoconjunctivitis after eyelash adhesive entered their eyes. This condition involves inflammation of the cornea and conjunctiva at the same time. The research also found that 40% of women had an allergic reaction to the glue.

In some cases, nail glue – a considerably stronger and more powerful product – has been sold as eyelash glue or substituted for it. In one particularly alarming example of incorrect application, a woman’s eyelids became stuck together when superglue was used to fit her eyelash extensions.

Eyelash adhesives may also create another health risk. A study examined 37 professional and consumer eyelash glues for formaldehyde, a chemical known to cause cancer.

The study showed that 75% of the 20 professional glues tested emitted formaldehyde, while four of the 17 consumer glues contained it too. Formaldehyde was not listed among the ingredients of some glues in which it was detected.

Preservatives used in adhesive can lead to toxic conjunctivitis and conjunctival erosion. The latter occurs when the epithelium – the layer of cells on the cornea’s surface – separates from the layer below. It can be painful and may impair vision.

Eyelash extensions, blepharitis and lash mites

The complication reported most often with eyelash extensions is blepharitis, meaning inflammation or irritation of the eyelids. The eyelid edges contain the follicles from which lashes grow. Within these follicles sit two kinds of glands that make antimicrobial substances, preventing bacteria from accumulating around the eyes.

Altering natural lashes disrupts this process, allowing bacteria to build up and cause blepharitis. Changes to the natural lash may also result in styes, because adhesive or bacterial accumulation can obstruct follicle secretions.

Inadequate hygiene in salons can cause an infestation of lash mites. Although most people carry some Demodex mites, they can transfer between hosts. Poor hygiene of lash tools may therefore lead to an infestation, particularly when the natural function of the lashes has been compromised.

Even when eyelash extensions are removed by a highly professional practitioner, the process can still damage natural lashes.

Eyelash growth serums and prostaglandin risks

As a result, some people have rejected extensions in favour of eyelash serums. Growth serums containing prostaglandin, for instance, have gained popularity because they can markedly increase the length, thickness and darkness of natural lashes.

These serums originated from glaucoma treatment, a condition in which fluid accumulates in the eye and affects sight. It was noticed that glaucoma patients using prostaglandin eye drops grew lashes that were longer, thicker and darker.

More recently, prostaglandin analogues – molecules with a similar structure – have also come into widespread use. Both forms of product, however, can carry health risks.

They may alter the colour of the iris, possibly permanently. They can also cause fat loss around the eye, known as prostaglandin-associated periorbitopathy. This can leave the eyes looking hollow and make dark circles appear worse.

If you choose to spend money on eyelash enhancements, use an experienced technician in a professional salon with impeccable hygiene. And if preserving your natural lashes matters to you, avoid making extensions a regular routine.

Adam Taylor, Professor and Director of the Clinical Anatomy Learning Centre, Lancaster University

This article is republished from The Conversation under a Creative Commons licence. Read the original article.